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Anchor Trip


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Thanks guys. I'll just hope to be snag free for the time being. I fully intend to be at the next meeting that I think is next Thursday, clutching my membership fee and joining form!

 

 

Steve

Steve, you can't go wrong if your first method of using a weak line is to make it too light. If you anchor up and it trips it's self within minutes use a bit thicker line or double the line you have. If it trips again on it's own go up another thicknes or tripple the line. You only need to do this exercise once as at some point you must find the thickness of the weak link that is ideal for you. Personally I prefer to use that sort of polythene orange twine as it is dead cheap (literaly 2p a ton) and two turns of it on the weak link work perfectly for me on an 18' Samurai.

 

Mad Mike

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Steve,

 

You will have no problems tripping an anchor with an Orkney Strikeliner. I have an Orkney 520 and use a 5 KG Bruce anchor with three thin black cable ties or two thicker white cable ties.

 

They trip with a bit of force but I prefer to have to give it a little bit of wellie to trip the anchor rather than have the damn thing trip and drag along the seabed / rocks which is bound to occur when it is most inconvenient/dangerous.

 

 

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I have been watching this thread with great interest, to read to how other people

recover their anchors and which method they employ and I thick all aspects have now been covered but there are a couple of observations of mine that you might

Hi all,

 

like to think about. Firstly you should never! tie your anchor warp of at the stern, I watched as someone did this and nearly came to grief when the engine died in a fierce tide and if the passenger on board did not cut the warp quickly the stern was going under water ( approx 16ft boat). Secondly something that happened to me, I had towed the anchor out and I thought the chain was safely through the alderney ring and the anchor was under the bouy. I started to recover anchor warp over starboard gunnel when the anchor had slipped back to the seabed and dug in, luckily none of the warp caught arround anything least of all some ones foot. needless to say I am very aware of exactly whats happening when recovering the anchor. Until something happens to you it is hard to appreciate how quickly things can go wrong. Last but not least I used to tie my anchor trip as you all have suggested but I still lost one .When I was telling a old lobster fisherman he suggested that you should always leave some slack in the anchor chain between the end of the chain that is shackled to anchor and the point where you tie or use cable ties to tie it of. Then no matter what angle is employed to break the trip the tie comes under pressure and trips. I have always used this method since and never lost another anchor (touch wood) and I anchor in some really rough ground.

Hope some of this is of interest.

 

Islander

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Hi Islander,

 

Yes, I would never tie off the anchor on the stern, either.

 

As for leaving the chain slightly loose between the end of the chain and where the chain is tie wrapped, I've read about this before and tried it a couple of times. Seems to work ok 'cus I haven't lost an anchor with it tripped that way. tongue.gif

 

I'd forgotten about this, and so will start using it again. wink.gif

 

 

BF

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Sorry but that slack will mean that you are effectively anchored by your cable ties ..............

 

this is madness

 

no method that weakens the the rode should be employed

Duncan I agree, but I didn't want to be the first to say that it was a daft idea laugh.gif

 

Yes there should be no horizontal tension on the cable ties/weak link at all. The weak link should only come under tension when the pull on it is vertical.

 

Mad Mike

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Sorry guys but I cannot agree with you, it is a tried and tested method that never fails.All you have to do is use a trip that is strong enough to hold you in a big tide but weak enough to give way under greatly increased load, this is not difficult. We are after all talking about fishing whilst on board,not leaving a boat at anchor unattended which of course would not be wise. Perhaps those of you that I read about who employ a trip but still somehow manage to loose your anchor should give it a try. Maybe a case of if you aint tried it dont knock it.

 

Islander

 

 

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Quote..strong enough to hold you in a big tide but weak enough to give way under greatly increased load, this is not difficult

 

The thing is with many small lighter boats it is not easy or safe to put a 'greatly increased' strain on an overly strong weak link. There is a world of a difference between an 18ft boat weighing 1000lb or so and a heavy displacement craft surging up against a locked in anchor suddenly tripping or even worse not tripping and pulling the bow down.

 

IMO (and that of others over the years) there should be no slack in the line to the base of the anchor and the trip should be just strong enough to trip when the anchor line is vertical and bouyed by the Alderny set up.

 

Mad Mike

 

PS. in 40 odd years of owning various boats and trying most things, I stick to what works safely and well.

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Oh I am sure it is really............. rolleyes.gif

 

I take your point about being aboard, however the implication of this is that you accept that it is possible that the anchor rigged this way may trip in use.

 

There are a number of circumstances where I feel the risks associated with this happening exceed any possible benefits (and by the way I can't actually see any benefits over one rigged without slack!)

 

1. Anchored uptide of overfalls

2. Anchored on a wreck - even a tripped anchor will quickly snag on any serious sized wreck; great paradox - you risk loosing your anchor because it's rigged to avoid loss!

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Believe it isnt

 

This is just a personal preference that I and many others use. After finding out through trial and error what is the best strength trip to use, it does not trip out accidently.If this were the case nobody ,myself included would use it ,because apart from safety in some circumstances as you have pointed out , theres nothing more frustrating than carefully anchoring over a mark then having to do it all again because the anchor broke out.

 

Islander

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we are clearly going to have to agree to disagree.

 

you use words like frustration when I see danger - 3 knots of tide 20 yds off a rocky headland ...........

 

I assume you use 4mm braid for your anchor rode recovering to a nice neat hand frame? It's going to have many times the load capacity of your trip, will handle the rocovery of anchor /chain by alderney ring or by hand and is both cheap and easy to store.

 

As has been emphasised many times your anchor and associated rode is one of the most important safety features on a small boat; it needs to be available for immediate deployment in a fully working state at all times.

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When I was onboard Maverick for the Bream comp last year over near the Dancing Ledge, the anchor trip out first drop and when Dean rigged it, it tripped out again, 3rd trip held, only because he took out the slack chain on the anchor.

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