Jump to content

Lazy Line


Newboy
 Share

Recommended Posts

I use a lazy line as part of the anchor system on SH, since I learnt about it from an old copy of BFM.

 

I'd thought it was a good and safe system, however recently I'd read it's standard practice to cut the anchor rope in an emergency. I went and had a look and realised I wouldn't be able to reach, let alone cut it, as it tied to the wincheye on the boat.

 

So do I go back to anchor from the bow or can I wrap the line round the bow roller?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dont write the lazy line off completely.

 

Although I no longer use it, (have easy and safe access to the bow on BW)

 

IF you continue to use the lazy line, and need to cut the warp in an emergancy it is just a case of pulling the slack part of the unused warp which will be in the cockpit thus pulling the boat uptide where you will meet the main anchor warp and can cut it away.

 

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How about routing the line from the winch eye thru the bow roller? Then the rope is at the top and can be reached with a knife? See diagram.

 

Manic: a lazy line is a (fairly) widely used way of anchoring. Instead od dropping the anchor from the bow, let out enough rope then cleating if off; the anchor is drop from the side.

 

First a rope (the lazy line) is tied to the wincheye, other end with a clip and is kept inside the boat until anchoring. When you arrived at the chosen mark, the anchor is dropped from the side and once enough rope is let out, you put a loop/knot in the main anchor warp and clip it with the lazy line, which will get dragged out to the front of the boat. Now the warp is taunt and the rest of the anchor rope is still inside the boat.

 

Advantage of this system is that you are at all time inside the boat not overhanging over the bow which is considered dangerous at times. You can up and down anchor as often as you like from the safty of your boat. Also, as Richard pointed out, when retriving th eanchor using the alderney ring, a crew can lift the rope clear of the bow and prevent it from tangling with the prop.

post-6-1108938987.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the anchor is dropped from the side and once enough rope is let out, you put a loop/knot in the main anchor warp and clip it with the lazy line,

 

The correct seamans knot for this is a 'rolling hitch'. No tight knots/loops to undo or clips.

 

A ROLLING HITCH

 

The end of the anchor warp should also be attached to the boat and easily accessible.

 

I would like to emphasize that it is unsafe and bad seamanship to use an anchor without being able to release or cut the anchor line.

 

Cheers Jack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, because I haven't picked up all the boat terminology yet, I'm still not certain how it works.

Any chance of another drawing showing the anchor rope (warp?) and the lazy line.

I think this might be quite useful on my boat due to the low front end and distance from the bow to where I stand or kneel to pull in

 

Thanks

 

 

Gordon

 

blink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry, because I haven't picked up all the boat terminology yet, I'm still not certain how it works.

Any chance of another drawing showing the anchor rope (warp?) and the lazy line.

I think this might be quite useful on my boat due to the low front end and distance from the bow to where I stand or kneel to pull in

 

Thanks

 

 

Gordon

 

blink.gif

Hi Gordon,

 

I'm no good at drawing with these puters ( I'm a puter novice) but I will try and explain and see if that helps.

 

Take a length of rope equal to your boat length. Attach one end to the centre bow deck cleat and take this rope over your bow roller. Hopefully your roller has some side cheeks with holes at the top to take a pin. Fix the pin so now the rope cannot jump out/off the bow roller. The other end of the line you bring back to your cockpit; outside of any stanchions. Make sure this rope will not now reach your stern - if it does - shorten the rope . This is to ensure the rope cannot get into the prop if it falls overboard. That is your Lazy rope installed. Lazy because it isn't doing anything at the moment.

 

Now when it comes to anchoring . Let out sufficient anchor rope from the cockpit ( at least 3 times maximum depth) now attach the Lazy rope end you have in the cockpit to the anchor rope. Carry on letting out your anchor rope PLUS your Lazy rope. In less than a boat length the anchoring strain will be taken on your Lazy rope and the anchor rope becomes slack.

 

To recover the anchor. Pull the slack anchor rope you have in the cockpit which will become under strain - continue to pull and you will pull the end of the Lazy rope back into the cockpit which you can then deal with.

 

Hence you have lowered and raised the anchor without leaving the cockpit.

 

I do not know how the bouying release system works but the guys here will no doubt explain the 'how to' on that.

 

I hope I haven't confused you and my explanation is clearer than the Bristol Channel water wink.gif

 

Cheers - Jack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very clearly explained, a few points I'd like to add are:

 

1) In strong tide, it might be easier to drive the boat forward a little in order for the lazy line be pulled in.

 

2) Adding the Alderney ring retriving system (or any similar ones), is also easy, all you do is put the rope thru the ring to start with, lower it with the retriving buoy which will also acts as an anchor buoy so in thoery other boat (reads yachts) can see you are anchor and don't try to slice your anchor rope. For instruction on how alderney ring works, do a search here, as it had been covered several times in the last 6 months.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jack that is now clear for me.

 

One question though. If there is a strong tide running then surely it will be difficult to pull the rope around to the side of the boat ?

 

( I see I have been beaten to it !! )

Edited by Paul D
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright I admit it,I must be thick,BUT. I have lowered my anchor from a 3/4 foreward position over the side of my 25ft boat.the tide is running hard,how do I hang on to the anchor rope with one hand and attach the end of the lazy line with the other,without being dragged overboard.Especialy as the boat will probably have swung sideways on. I could'nt loop yhe anchor rope around the centre cleat as this is surely a dangerous practice. Not trying to be awkward,just like to get it strait on paper before I try it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright I admit it,I must be thick,BUT. I have lowered my anchor from a 3/4 foreward position over the side of my 25ft  boat.the tide is running hard,how do I hang on to the anchor rope with one hand and attach the end of the lazy line with the other,without being dragged overboard.Especialy as the boat will probably have swung sideways on. I could'nt loop yhe anchor rope around the centre cleat as this is surely a dangerous practice. Not trying to be awkward,just like to get it strait on paper before I try it.

Hi Jack,

 

Basically this idea is for smaller boats with very small side decks or a potentially dangerous small foredeck. At 25ft, you should not have either of these problems and you should be able to anchor via the bows. Also your anchor, chain and rope should be larger, making anchoring from the cockpit more tiresome.

 

However if you wish to try this idea for anchoring - attach the lazy line to the anchor rope BEFORE dropping the anchor. I expect you have 'tell tale ties' on your anchor rope to show the length out - so it's easy to see where to tie on the lazy line.

 

You can get self-stowing bow rollers. These are very effective and assist to organise your anchoring without going on the foredeck. Most bow rollers in use have the problem that the cheeks are too close together therefore not allowing the free passage of the correct size anchor shackle. Meaning you've still got to go on the foredeck to lift the anchor on to the roller. You can use these modern slimmer anchor attachments but their 'ears' have been known to break off. Nothing beats a tested and stamped galvanised shackle for safety and a wider bow roller.

 

I know you were not trying to be awkward. Safe boating is all about thinking ahead and resolve any problems before they happen.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers - Jack

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks all,for your help.I think for now I will stick to sending son Andy,up on the foredeck,At least I think we have cracked any "anchor rope around the prop" worries.Our anchor bouy rope has a very large stainless opening mooring clip on its end,which we clip to the anchor warp when its down.but I see if we loop in a ring or shackle to stop the bouy rope some 20ft ahead of the boat we should be able to swing clear of it all when we move ahead to pull the anchor.Our only other problem is that the rope has been known to jump out from between the "ears" on the front roller.It doesnt have a pin through it.If theres room,could we drill two holes and put something through ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.Our only other problem is that the rope has been known to jump out from between the "ears" on the front roller.It doesnt have a pin through it.If theres room,could we drill two holes and put something through ?

Hi Jack,

 

Sure you can. You're actually making the 'ears' far stronger as they will be supported top and bottom.

 

If the anchor and shackle will not pass over the bow roller with the pin in place I suggest you use a 'drop nose' pin to facilitate easy/quick removal.

 

Cheers - Jack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.Our only other problem is that the rope has been known to jump out from between the "ears" on the front roller.It doesnt have a pin through it.If theres room,could we drill two holes and put something through ?

Hi Jack,

 

Sure you can. You're actually making the 'ears' far stronger as they will be supported top and bottom.

 

If the anchor and shackle will not pass over the bow roller with the pin in place I suggest you use a 'drop nose' pin to facilitate easy/quick removal.

 

Cheers - Jack

Hi Jack,

 

Just thought to mention another alternative to the pin if you have a stainless steel bow roller.

 

Have welded some stainless steel round bar across the 'ears/cheeks'. This round bar is welded on the outside faces of the bow roller and is basically shaped like an inverted U, but also shaped,kind of circular - to allow the free passage of the anchor and shackle .

 

Cheers - Jack

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the tip "drop nose pin".just guessing ,but is this the type of pin you have behind an outboard to adjust the "rake" ?

Hi Jack,

 

I guess that's the same type. I think there are a couple of types. One the whole of the end of the pin folds over. The other a flat piece in the end of the pin drops down to lock the pin in place.

 

Either will work fine. It's easier/safer/quicker to remove a 'drop nose pin' than trying to undo a nut - I've seen some people use a nut and bolt!.

 

Cheers - Jack

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...