Outboard

[pirky]

Hi all

Continuing the thread.....I just paid for and downloaded a Mariner service manual 1977 - 1989 ....only to find it does not cover my old "lump" ..........oh well it will do for a generic I suppose !!

 

Anybody on here got a manual for the OLDER style Mariner 40 hp 2 stroke 2 cylinder (ex RNLI lump I was told !!) ??

 

Dave

[mike02380]

that would be great thanks Rob, i will pm you my email

 

it is 2001 4stroke 40hp, i also have a same year 4hp 4 stroke which i was going to try first,

 

i anticipate i will need to pick up a few tools as well but i have seen the service kits on ebay including spark plugs, oil, gearbox oil. impeller and oil/fuel filter.

 

sorry pirky to have gatecrashed onto your thread!

Edited January 16, 2010 by mike02380

[Coddy]

Hi Dave

 

This might help as a start

 

See attached info sheet

 

Dave

[pirky]

Dave

Already had this one but thanks for the thought !!

Dave

[dainichi]

Thanks Wedger I will give it a go tomorrow, weather looks a bit better

and I can bring it out onto my drive and have a better look.

 

Alan

[pirky]

Just to let everybody know.......the manual I paid for on-line ......payment was refunded to me via paypal by the site platform

 

http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/193...anual-1977-1989

 

How good is that ???......worthy of a mention I thought.

 

Dave

[Coddy]

It may not be suitable but I have been overhauling my Seagull outboard and willing to bring it along to a club meeting before I reassemble completley and go through various components if anyone is interested.

 

Alternativly if anyone has an old outboard I am quite happy to strip it down and use that.

 

Dave

[great white]

Hi Dave

 

I may have a manual here somewhere for your engine I will try and locate it.

 

The good news is that those engines are old now, but are good

 

In an earlier job I looked after quite a few, and apart from the usual faults the two cylinder 40's were good. But Royal Marines sure were good at snapping the start ropes

 

Charlie

[pirky]

Thanks Charlie

 

I have done that too....getting to be quite good at taking the fly and recoil bit off, repair and replace....

 

It would be handy if you have the manual, it would give me a head start when things need doing.....so much to learn for an "old f**t " like me.

I have put my lump down to early 70's but have no way of knowing......plate has been filed flat so no serial No ?? UNLESS you know of some other way of finding the No ??

Must be somewhere else on the engine ??

 

Enjoy your decorating !!

 

Dave

Edited January 17, 2010 by pirky

[Maverick Martin]

Just found this on another site and thought it might be helpful for those that do DIY outboard servicing

 

DIY Servicing

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

2 and 4 stroke - Applicable for overwintering \Servicing

_____________________________________________

 

 

Run the engine on muffs for at least 5 mins to clean out salt and to warm it up. Have a look at the flow from the 'pee' pipe, if it is dribbling either you have salt deposits blocking the engine waterways or you need a new water pump impeller.

 

Remove the plugs and squirt in some fogging oil ( Quicksilver Winterising is one ), turn engine over to distribute oil and replace the plugs. When you fire up next time run engine until it runs clean and then replace plugs. The old ones are then spares. These plugs are known to be good whereas a new plug from the box could be faulty.

 

Remove top and bottom slotted screws on gearbox bullett. Drain gearbox oil, if it is clear you are OK, if it is milky get help. Replace by filling from the bottom hole and when it comes out of the top hole it is full. Get the bottom pug in quickly followed by the top.

 

At the bottom of each carb there is a brass nut, undo it 1/2 turn and fuel will come out. Drain all the fuel from each carb starting at the top. Nip the nuts up afterwards.

 

Take off the prop and grease the splines, check you havn't got anything round the shaft, bit of line trapped there can work under the gearbox oil seal and cause a world of grief.

 

Grease all points on the engine with a grease gun filled with a lime based grease and give the steering tube a squirt with Wurth spray grease when fully extended. Store in the fully retracted position to stop water ingress into the inner tube. Inside the cable is all mild steel.

 

Check the anodes on the engine, any that are 50% gone should be replaced.

 

Give the engine an all over squirt with Duck oil, or WD at a pinch. A squirt of Wurth on all the moving linkages is worth while

 

4 stroke only,

____________

 

Drop the engine oil and remove the oil filter, replace filter and top up with fresh oil. Use the oil recomended by the mnufacturer, it is dearer than normal 4 stroke oil but contains additional addatives for marine use. It is a once a year cost so not worth saving a few bob IMHO.

 

General

_______

 

 

Give the outside a good wash down and dry, touch in any paint chips and when all dry give the exterior a coat of wax polish. Leave this on without polishing to protect the paintwork from the weather. A wash over and polish next time you use it will bring it up to spec.

 

Take the battery out of the boat and stand on plenty of newspaper in a shed, trickle charge once a month.

 

Top up your fuel tanks to the top and close the breathers to stop water ingress and condensation. OR empty them completely and store upside down with the caps removed. Check the hoses and bulbs or signs of cracking, perishing. Check the fittings at the ends of the fuel lines, especially the 'O'ring seals. any damage replace them.

 

Take all the removable electrics off the boat, wrap in a towel and hide at the back of the airing cupboard, it will do them good. All the electrical connections will benefit from a dab of vaseline. Have a look at the end of the ariel co ax cable that goes into the VHF, if it is black the conducter is corroded. Cut it back to fresh metal and remake the connection. It is surprising how many VHF faults are down to this.

 

Check your flares are still in date and any auto inflate life jackets are in good nick. Check the CO2 cannisters are tight, they tend to work loose with the engine vibes.

 

Take the rope off your boat and give it a wash in warm water and washing powder, it picks up loads of sand and this causes wear inside the rope. Rinse in plenty of cold water and coil, hang it in a shed out of direct sunlight to dry. Check all the shackles on the anchor gear are nipped up and not rusty.

 

Wash the trailer with warm soapy water to get rid of salt, Check the wheel bearings, rock the tyres side to side any play replace the bearings. While the trailer is jacked up spin the wheels, any graunching, replce the bearings. Take the bearings out clean them and check, if any signs of rust at all, replace and regrease. Check the tyres for damage and if you are leaving the boat for any length of time jack up and block off, this gives the tyres/ suspension a rest and stops flats forming on tyres. Grease the tow hitch and linkages. Any signs of rust on the trailer metalwork will benift from a wire brushing and a coat of a Zink rich primer followed by a cold galvanising paint. The trailer rollers should be checked for flats and the pivot pins dosed with Wurth spray grease.

[pirky]

Thanks Martin ........Any and all info is very handy.....

 

Does the club keep anything on the database or does it have a book store for these types of useful info snippets etc ?????...... I mean why invent the wheel more than twice??....a separate 500 G hard drive for an archive only costs about

Edited January 20, 2010 by pirky

[Maverick Martin]

To date no posts are deleted unless they are offensive of course. What members write is always there for future ref but you would need to use the search facility to find them.

 

If someone would like to put together a maintenance post/article that could be added to as and when I could pin it to the top of the page...if thats whats wanted

 

Martin

[great white]

The gearbox bullet is the gear casing

 

Two large screw heads

 

One at the top, usually thought to be a filler but is the vent

 

Bottom one is a drain/filler

 

open that one first and oil will only seep out, open the top one lets air in to allow flow of oil out of the lower one.

 

if a full drain required, leave both out to drain the oil into container.

 

Filling again is through the lower one to let air escape from the top [A lot easier with a proper pump but just possible with oil in a tube] when oildl comes out top hole gearbox full and no air trapped. Replace top fitting tight, then when filler tube removed replace the lower one.

 

Simples

 

But if you have found emulsified [Cloudy] oil, it has water in and the problem needs to be found before refilling box/using engine.

 

Charlie

[pirky]

Thanks Charlie

You are a star.....that sounds easy enough........is there a special salt water gear box oil req'd and any idea about the amount that may be req'd.

 

Dave

[great white]

No problem Dave

 

The oil should never touch water so salt or fresh is not the point really,

 

You can easily check the specs to see oil capacity for a gearbox, if you can not find out let me know.

Unfortunatly I am struggling to find my old manuals

 

marine gearbox oil is commonly available, in plastic tubes so it can be squeezed in using the method descibed earlier.

 

If you can not find out how much the box holds and do not want to buy more than required, drain it first and measure how much came out,using an old milk container or simular.

 

Hope that helps

Charlie