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Brian
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Nah I only have a manual bilge pump and  only need it when rainwater level in foredeck gets too high and overtops door sil and enters the cabinl.

This is due to my flap valve deck drain sometimes sticking as not enough head to open it properly.

I have invested in a Whale supersub smart 650 bilge pump

https://www.marinesuperstore.com/marine-pumps/bilge/whale-supersub-smart-650-bilge-pump-12v?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=pcn&utm_term=99293598&utm_campaign=MSS&gclid=CjwKCAiA_f3uBRAmEiwAzPuaM-Inp4uYD5bsF1WSQBHVHLH7kUkDAVmlxNHoEjwnqz4yTcY-DI4y4hoCAoUQAvD_BwE

which I will install in the foredeck drainage gulley near the scupper.It should keep water level below 9mm in theory.

The bilge is separate to the foredeck drain.

i will install the pump via a waterproof plug and socket so if needs be I can optimise its position

image.jpeg

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Now Pete !

.

.

.

You used the word there but didn't do the deed.

What's the first tool that little boys use ?

A stick !

Poke a stick in the non return flap to keep it open while you're away.

There!

No electrics to go wrong.

No expense.

More dosh for Cake !

Sorted ! :lol::P

 

 

Jim

 

 

 

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If only it were that simple Jim,

The Scupper drain is connected via an S bend flexible pipe so to get over the bend needs a flexible rod I've tried wire without success.

This is why the flap valve needs a bit of head to open.

There isn't a problem when on the plane but when boat is level I need the s bend to stop the water coming on board just in case the flap valve sticks open.

I have another solution and that is to get the dry stack boys to built up the port side mounting support so the boat is always tilted to starboard but might have a few issues with damage to starboard trim tab if I go this route.

Sticking with the bilge pump solution for now.

 

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22 hours ago, gaffa said:

If only it were that simple Jim,

The Scupper drain is connected via an S bend flexible pipe so to get over the bend needs a flexible rod I've tried wire without success.

This is why the flap valve needs a bit of head to open.

There isn't a problem when on the plane but when boat is level I need the s bend to stop the water coming on board just in case the flap valve sticks open.

I have another solution and that is to get the dry stack boys to built up the port side mounting support so the boat is always tilted to starboard but might have a few issues with damage to starboard trim tab if I go this route.

Sticking with the bilge pump solution for now.

 

What about one of those flexible drain cleaners on a reel Pete?

 

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Mick  I've invested in a cable puller to pull a multicore cable from a battery fused switch panel directly fed from one of my two batteries and located at the rear of the cabin to the housing shown in the previous photo.

cable puller

I will try to push it  through the s bend to open the flap valve but it still leaves me with the problem of head needed to overcome the s bend.

I will flood the deck and check how high the water level  needs to go before it escapes through the flap valve .I might even consider reducing the height of the s bend.

Can't do anything yet until the cable puller arrives ....hope it gets here before Tuesday. if so I'll let you know how I get on if you're at the meeting .

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