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Alaska 500 wanted.


Jack the Lad
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Jack - Will do.

 

You have probably already seen it, but www.boatsandoutboards is one of the best places on the net to look.

 

Adam

Hi Adam,

 

Thanks for info - been checking that and other sites. Not many Alaska's for sale at moment and I've seen some horrors! So I thought somebody might know of one that's not yet actually on 'the market'.

 

Jack

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I had a nightmare looking for a Warrior 165 about 8 months ago - everything I saw advertised either was sold, a real state or out of my price range - in the end luck stepped in and I found one not being 'commercially' advertised at a brokers in Portsmouth.

 

Hang in there - it only takes one boat!

 

BTW - whats your budget? In hindsight I wish that I had gone new from the outset....4 months after buying my 165, the 5 year old engine went bang and it cost me

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Jack,

 

I think you will find that Adam actually paid a qualified mechanic to check the engine......

Hi Paul,

 

Thats a worry - Adam obviously did all the right things and tried to take precautions, just like I'm trying to do; then that happens to him. Ouch.

 

Do you know of a good used Alaska hull with a 'blown up' engine? Then I can perhaps afford the boat and buy a new engine?

 

Jack

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Jack,

 

dont be too put off by my experiance - loads of people buy second hand packages and have no problrms at all - I was just unlucky.

 

Yes, I did have a qualified Mariner engineer look over the engine, but he didnt do a full survey - how far do you go?

 

Keep looking - you WILL find what youre after.

 

PS: Did you know that 2 types of Alaska are available?? The older Shetland Hull and the new (preferable?) SeaHog Hull.

 

Bob F has one - field any Q's to him.

 

AF

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I'd be interested to know what you get from an Engineer's report. Does it give any guarantees?

 

Do they actually open up the engine? If not, how do they know if something like the Power Head is about the go (like it did on Adam's). I suppose you can do compression tests and stuff like that.

 

How much is a full engineers report, typically?

 

BF

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I'd be interested to know what you get from an Engineer's report. Does it give any guarantees?

 

Do they actually open up the engine? If not, how do they know if something like the Power Head is about the go (like it did on Adam's). I suppose you can do compression tests and stuff like that.

 

How much is a full engineers report, typically?

 

BF

Hi Bob,

 

I don't think I'll get guarantees. There is one boat at Soton which I'm to look at after Xmas. The engine is a Suzuki 55TD a local mechanic there, who used to work for Suzuki before going on his own will check it over for

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Jack,

 

I'm not very clued up on the Shetland versions, but yes, if it is a cream hull then it will probably be a Shetland. Not sure exactly when Arnie Holt bought the moulds from Shetland but I think it was the mid to late 90's.

 

The reason I bought an Alaska instead of something like the Warrior was that the Alaska is rated to carry 6-8 persons versus 4 on a Warrior. I wouldn't want to have 8 people in an Alaska but she's easily managed 3 adults and 3 kids. I regularly fish with 3 adults onboard with no problems.

 

In terms of handling, the Alaska has got a wide beam and so rolls less at anchor or when a person moves about when steaming. I like that!! On the down side, the wider bow can cause a little broaching in some seas (but rare) and can make it a slightly wetter ride at times, but that's usually a good signal to tell you you should be going a little slower in the conditions.

 

What would I change on the boat? I prefer the new Alaska layout which has single swivel seats on both sides, and I'd like a folding canopy instead of the standard fixed version, although I have now found a way of folding it away.

 

Not sure what bouncy was in the Shetland hull, but the Arnie Holt versions have terrific bouncy installed. Arnie showed me some impressive photos of the swamp test they did on the Alaska as part of the CE certification. The boat was diliberately flooded but was still floating with 4 or 5 people jumping up and down on the hull.

 

Yes, weak floors were a problem on some of the Shetland versions and also heard about stress fractures around the transom area. Look for stress fractures in general, especially if it has been trailered on an old trailer which doesn't offer the support of the modern roller trailers.

 

And if you buy a boat with an engine, check that it has a serial number. I know this is an obvious thing but it's easy to forget. If it doesn't have a s/n leave well alone. Even engineers forget to do this.

 

You'll enjoy the Alaska, which ever version you get.

 

BF

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Does the 500 has a sealed floor?

 

I used to have a sheltie and from what I read from Shetland owners site, they all recommended to replace the floor on their shelties (single skin, not sealed), Reason being:

1) it strengthen the structure of the boat,

2) Hull is not the thickest on the market and a small hole below the waterline will have you in trouble in no time (with a sealed floor it acts as a second hull, the boat will seat lower in water but you can still get home).

3) to add bouyancy to the boat, as the they can be prone to a sudden swell and swamp the boat.

 

Unfortunately their wasn't much info on the 500/600.

 

I hope you have better luck than I had with the Shetland regarding getting info for the 500, because the company has been taken over (serveral times), they don't really have much knowledge about the older boats.

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Does the 500 has a sealed floor?

 

I hope you have better luck than I had with the Shetland regarding getting info for the 500, because the company has been taken over (serveral times), they don't really have much knowledge about the older boats.

You're 100% correct - Getting info on bouancy and double floor etc is very difficult. Shetlands own site seems to be suffering problems.

I've put the following posting on the Shetland Owners site but no response so far.

 

"I'm looking at buying a Shetland Alaska 500 year 1991. Could you please tell me were these manufactured with a bouancy cavity below the floor? If so, was this cavity filled with foam ?

 

I know the Seahog version is basically unsinkable - does this also apply to the Shetland version ?"

 

 

 

Does anybody reading this know the answer? If so please advise me.

 

Cheers - Jack

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Have you looked at the Shetland's website for some (rather basic) info on their older boats?

 

http://www.shetlandboats.co.uk/socparts.htm

 

By comparing the size and weigh of the 500, Hobby, sheltie and the 535, I would guess the 500 is in fact has an unsinkable hull. Both the Sheltie and 535 is longer yet lighter by about 200-250lb, yet the Hobby is the same size but heavier by about 150lb, but with a larger cuddy and more furniture in the cabin.

 

Also you should be able to tell if it has a sealed floor when you have a look at it. Give it a few tap from underneath and if it sounds solid, then it's foam filled.

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Give it a few tap from underneath and if it sounds solid, then it's foam filled.

Putting in your own foam is neither expensive nor difficult, can get it as a 2-pack mix from Glassplies or probably even a boatbuilders. The boat may well have an inspection hatch, if not you cut one somewhere. There are some pitfalls though. It'll make future hull repairs a swine and may trap water. Once it is mixed, you only have a few seconds to deliver it before all hell breaks loose. I used it to strengthen panels on a kit car and tried to be clever and inject it by syringe. What a mess laugh.gif

 

Steve

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Just a note of warning! sad.gif

 

You need to ensure you get the correct foam as some break up if flexed! sick.gif

 

There are many types about so it may well be worth asking a boat builder BEFORE you start and DON'T fill it too much if you do go ahead as it does expand some what and you could do major damage! weep.gifweep.gif

 

It also gets VERY HOT!

 

regards

 

Coddy

cool.gif

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