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Motor Cruiser Sunk


Mike Fox
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Caught this on the local news...

 

http://www.solent.tv/pageviewer.aspx?page=...114903458515000

 

Footage on television showed the boat going down dramatically.

 

According to the RNLI, a 3-4" hole below the waterline can let in half a ton of water a MINUTE.

 

Very much a worse case scenario, but imagine what could happen on your boat...batteries submerged, no main electrics/VHF radio, little time to get life jackets on....

 

Not nice to think about - but if in a similar situation, what could you do differently to improve the odds in your favour?

 

Mike

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Good to read that the crew were all well if a little shaken

 

Just goes to show what a simple gear failure can do even on what looks to be a very nicely looked after boat. Mitchell 31's are very solid boats so I am sure the boat and engine are recoverable.

 

But it may have been a different outcome a week earlier than good friday with not many other boats about, or further offshore late in the day.

 

Well worth mental consideration on what you would do to keep your boat afloat in such circumstances.

[Plastic bags and Rags lashed around the shaft and stern tube should have slowed the leak enough to allow pumps to cope, and should have been able to done in the 5 mins the rescue boat took] but that is without considering a wife and child onboard and panic.

1. Call Mayday

2. Make sure crew are safe , in lifejackets and [if carried liferaft], flares and grab bag ready

3. Try everything you can to keep the boat afloat, while she floats stay onboard if sea state and position allows

 

In the RN excessive training is given to crews in fire fighting , Damage control and machinery breakdowns. a 999 call is sod all use half way across the oceans.

Unlike the emergancy services, in the RN saving the ship is the main and sometimes only priority.

 

Charlie

 

 

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Hi Kam,

For an inboard engined craft, the stern gland is the bit that stops water flooding back into the boat along the prop shaft - the hull seal.

 

I've had the two main types:

 

- a stuffing box, which is a tight fitting metal tube fitted round the prop shaft, filled with what is effectively greasy string, and needs regular grease injecting. Pretty robust, but messy, and drips water and grease into the bilges;

 

- a rubber shaft seal that clamps round the shaft and secured to the inside of the hull with a waterproof joint, with internal seals to stop sea water flowing into the boat. Much less maintenance - grease occasionally, and replace every 5 years (or manufacturers instructions). If they split (which is rare) it can be catastrophic.

 

Charlie's advice is spot on.

 

Cover and seal the split with whatever is to hand, ropes, underwater tape or jubilee clips to hold in place (carry emergency repair materials), bilge pump (essential!) to keep the water level down, and you have a chance of getting yourself out of it. Even diverting a lifebait pump to support the bilge pump would help.

 

Plan ahead, act effectively, call for assistance, and plan to be self sufficient because help might be just that bit too far away....

 

Mike

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I assume the stern gland is under the deck, so presumably you would not notice the leak until a fair bit of water had already poured into the boat and was seeping through the deck (or you notice the bow pointing towards the sky!!), by which time it might be too late to do anything to stop the leak.

 

I guess an automatic bilge pump would help in these circumstances. But are auto bilge pumps always left on?

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I guess an automatic bilge pump would help in these circumstances. But are auto bilge pumps always left on?

Mine was, I had mine wired directly to the second battery with an inline fuse, so even on the drive mine would pumped water from time to time. Can't see the point of having a bilge pump without an auto switch.

 

The pump was also wired via a switch, so either the auto switch kickes in or it could be switched on to pump water.

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If the batteries get submerged an electrical bilge pump will probably not work. Cigarette lighter variety the same!

 

A manual bilge pump will keep working, as will someone with a bucket...for a while.

 

A "strum box" to stop it getting clogged with floating/waterlogged bits and pieces is also a good idea.

 

Mike

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Yup...which is why Charlie had it spot on...reduce the flow until you can cope.

 

I carry tapered wooden bungs so that they can be wedged into any small opening in the hull. A friend lost a seacock due to corrosion, and a bung was the only thing that did the job.

 

Mike

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Agreed, my point was that I've heard people say "I've got a good bilge pump so it won't be a problem", without realising just how much water they might have to cope with.

An inflated lifejacket (spare), article of clothing, cushion etc. can be very effective wedged against the damaged area.

Edited by Brian
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If the batteries get submerged an electrical bilge pump will probably not work. Cigarette lighter variety the same!

 

A manual bilge pump will keep working, as will someone with a bucket...for a while.

 

A "strum box" to stop it getting clogged with floating/waterlogged bits and pieces is also a good idea.

 

Mike

Actually, a 12 volt syatem will continue working when immersed. Cars plunging off quay's are a point to illustrate this. The head lights continue working untill the battery runs out of power. A 12 pump & it's power supply will work under water.

 

Mad Mike

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