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Near Miss.


jack
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Out fishing Sunday.Good Tide ,Anchor down.Method in use,adapted Anka Yanka Recovery...Andy is on the engine,he has motored foreward enough to take the strain from the anchor rope,I hook the bouy on and put the line stop [triangle or other ] in place,feed out 20 foot of rope , and take a few turns around the main anchor post.Andy can now see the bouy and when we are ready he will veer to Port take up slack and move ahead.I keep watch at the front, he leaves cabin and secures the inboard end of the anchor rope to the large stern corner cleat. When he is back at the wheel he signals and I release the rope from the front post and throw it clear of the rails etc on the starboard side .I move back to watch the rope and signal when the bouy breaks out and follows behind.Textbook stuff. done it dozens of times now,no snatching just a steady pull. As he moves ahead I see that the rope is behind one of the starboard fenders hanging inboard ,I reach down to free it .when the rope tightens hard. My thumb somehow becomes trapped between the anchor and the fender ropes,and I am in real danger of either losing my thumb or being dragged overboard..Andy is watching the bouy and does not see what has happened. It hurts like hell and I can't free it left handed so I but it with my knee and the Fender mercifully flicks up and overboard and I am free. I sit on the deck feeling sick !! I didn't tear my thumb off or get dragged over, but it just shows how careful one must be,no matter how familier the task in hand...I am having a black thumb day today,but I've still got it, its amazing how attatched you can get to digits !! dry.gif jack

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A good caution indeed. And I am sorry about the thumb. Try holding it on ice (frozen peas inna bag) and then in hot water, keep alternating. This brings out the bruise and relieves muscle spasm.

 

Back to the caution, I always say 'If something could happen it will' . Just as chefs NEVER try to catch a falling knife but jump back out of the way, I never get my hand or fingers UNDER a rope if I can help it. Pull from the outer side not push from the inside.

 

Mad Mike

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Hi Jack,

 

Not sure if I've mis-read your post, but it sounds like you untied the anchor rope from the bow post and re-attached it to the stern cleat to pull the anchor out.

 

If so, this is potentially very dangerous. sad.gif

 

If the anchor is snagged it can pull the stern of the boat under water. This happened to Mark last year when the rope caught around his outboard.

 

The safe method for anchor recovery that we have been taught is to allows leave the anchor rope attached to the bow post. In this way, if the anchor does get snagged, all it will do is pull the bow round, allowing you to ease off the power and try again.

 

Sorry if I've mis-read your post, but it's an apt reminder to everyone, anyway. wink.gif

 

cheers

 

BF

 

 

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Some while ago I related to an incident an old buddy of mine got caught up in by attaching the anchor warp to a stern cleat for retrieval. A big 'no no' that almost cost them dear off St Alban's.

T

Interesting thoughts from all.

 

A cautionary note from a good ol' buddy's experience, and one I took great heed of personally.

 

He always used a buoy/anchor (Alderney) system, which I presume he, for similar reasons to the above, used a stern bollard to tow the anchor and chain into the ring for winch or hand recovery. On one occasion, he had fished the first part of the ebb, back into a part of St Alban's Ledge, until the tide picked up. (33' wooden fisher 5+ tons)

 

Upping anchor started OK, having freed it from the bed, warp on stern bollard. Suddenly he had loss of power.

(you can see where this goes).

 

Drifting down tide he + one crew try to sort out the engine as they drift to the ledge when the anchor (which was only half in) drops on the ledge, immediately sticking in. This swings the boat from broadside on, to stern up-tide in seconds, right in the rip / over-fall zone.

 

Stern under and shipping water, the axe went through the warp ASAP but only just in time

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Yes I am afraid we do a stern cleat pull-out. practicaly wrecked the front roller plates and adjacent cleates as well as removing the rubber bumber and its casing at the bow.on previous Drag out battles. .there is always a sharp knife adjacent to the stern cleat ready for use [we are aware there could be a problem ] However in rough seas and major tide,we are too chicken to put the ancher down ,other than from neccessity.We have a substantial boat,and if conditions are bad,we don't go out...Living "on the edge !! "...jack

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Jack, assuming you fasten the main Anchor line to the bottom of the anchor and connect the chain to the anchors top ring by a weak link, how thick are you making this weak link?

I can't understand how you have had so many problems lifting the hook if you are setting up the anchor correctly. Lifting the hook should be a doddle and be dead easy, just a slight tug on the bouyed line usualy lifts an unjammed anchor and a strong steady pull to break the trip line and invert the anchor works on one jambed under summat.

Give me a PM if you want and I can pop round and have a look.

 

Mad Mike

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....just to add to Gordons advice - once you have swung on the slack, you will now be anchored away from the wreck, BUT when you come to retreave the anchor you will have to steam TOWARDS the wreck to get it out - risking dragging it into the steel.

 

Adam

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Jack

 

Once, my crew tied off the anchor line to the stern cleat whilst retreiving on Poole Patch. Very scarey but it's suprising what strength you can muster in panic. I do use the stern cleat when recovering but I dont tie the rope off. As we motor away, the now educated crew catches the anchor line alongside the boat with the boat hook and pulls the slack just inside the cleat. It's not tied on but has the same effect. You now know that the line can't get around the prop. An important consideration on shaft drive boats as we can't lift up a convenient leg or outboard. The line can be reasonably easily freed if the anchor does not let go.

 

All the strain is still on the bow roller which is strong enough to cope. We then pull in the slack line and pile it on the deck. The anchor is either dumped on top of the pile if we are moving position wher eit can simply be lobbed back in at the new position or we pop the anchor into the stern storage box untill we can tidy it up when back on the mooring.

 

Regards

John C

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On Lookfar we use John C's method as well, just drop the line across the rear cleat to keep it clear of the prop. Since it is under tension at the time, watch those fingers! We also dump the warp on the deck if we're short-hopping to another mark but a big warning on this one - don't drop the anchor over the side when you are stood inside a coil of warp sad.gif

Both potentially dangerous practices but done with care. Be nice to have a rope barrel but deck space is at a premium.

 

Steve

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I have taken all your advice and tips onboard. We tried running the warp..front roller to stern post without the turns around, this was how we did the damage on the front end..I think our problem is that we dont have any type of retaining device to keep the warp in place on the roller, it jumps out and has mangled the wings at either side of the roller [and they are 1/4 inch plate],we also have a rear handrail which encloses the whole rear corner,so the warp has to be run outside of this to avoid the rail staunchions taking the whole strain,and tearing out, there is a further side rail which really needs the warp to be run inside of it. In all a masterpiece of crap design by someone with a pencil and precious little experience of anchor recovery.There appears to be no way that the warp can remain with its main attatchment point as the front roller and anchor post,and yet still use the strong rear cleat as the main stress point when hauling out.Unless we carry on as we do...see diagram [i hope]...jack

post-13-1138098311.jpg

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Quote..I think our problem is that we dont have any type of retaining device to keep the warp in place

 

That's the source of your problem Jack. IMO you must have some method of stopping the rope jumping out (as it will do) of the stem head roller. A simple S/S strap bent into a U and fastened using the stem roller through bolt is what I use.

 

Mad Mike

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The winch eye is the way to go! My last boat was an Arvor 21 and I had a scary moment using the stern post to pull out the anchor. It happened in shallow harbour water when the anchor stuck in the mud, as soon as the warp tightened stern almost went straight under. A good cure for constipation but I wouldn

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I'm really worried if enough club members use the stern bollard method of pulling the anchor out; the law of averages says that on a day with just the wrong conditions one of us is going to sink our boat. It really goes against everything you get taught over the years. All the club members boats are small enough to have a problem using this method. Pehaps another open day showing anchor retrieval should be arranged.

Sorry if I sound a bit serious but it really is an issue.

Simon.

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Martin,

 

Sometime in the next month (feb) would be a good idea - its about the quietest month of the year all round.

 

It was a great success and both new and current members will learn alot. Running with the current theme - even in a large 25' + boat using the stern cleat really isnt nessasasry if you use the correct procedure and rig the anchor correctly - when stuck in the wreck a few weeks ago it was scary how quick the tide whipped BW around when the warp tightened - like a big elastic band.

 

Maybe we can firm a date at next weeks meeting?

 

Adam

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Martin, Adam, I for one would definately benefit from a spot of tuition in anchor retrieval.

 

On Sunday, Coddy asked me if I wanted to steam it out, and as I hadn't done it before, felt outside my " Comfort Zone", and declined. With lessons from Bob F on trim and turning etc, then the chance to position over a wreck, (almost Coddy, almost!), I feel far more confident as crew, but being a shy person......I'm unwilling to ask skippers if I can try something new. We all have to learn sometime, so I'm all for it.

 

Rich

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Rich. I watched when Alun j. was recovering his anchor last Sat. It brought back unhappy memories of countless back injuries in my younger days carrying out "hand hauling " of anchors,even from smaller craft.and in light of my seriously bad back these days,I can recomend useing any other method of recovery available,and a little tuition goes a long way. dry.gif jack

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[QUOThat's the source of your problem Jack. IMO you must have some method of stopping the rope jumping out (as it will do) of the stem head roller. A simple S/S strap bent into a U and fastened using the stem roller through bolt is what I use.

 

Mad Mike

TE]

 

Hi Mike. Andy has been keeping up with this post [as it's dear to our hearts,and HIS back ]..He is to consult someone called either " Stainless Sid " or " Metal Mickey" [cant remember which ] to sort out a retaining strap over the front roller,Then with our recovery bouy ,in sight some 20+ feet ahead of the boat,I am sure we can cope without using the stern cleat at all.....jack

post-13-1138185360.jpg

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[QUOThat's the source of your problem Jack. IMO you must have some method of stopping the rope jumping out (as it will do) of the stem head roller. A simple S/S strap bent into a U and fastened using the stem roller through bolt is what I use.

 

Mad Mike

TE]

 

Hi Mike. Andy has been keeping up with this post [as it's dear to our hearts,and HIS back ]..He is to consult someone called either " Stainless Sid " or " Metal Mickey" [cant remember which ] to sort out a retaining strap over the front roller,Then with our recovery bouy ,in sight some 20+ feet ahead of the boat,I am sure we can cope without using the stern cleat at all.....jack

Don't throw too much money at it (unless you want to of course) a bit of S/S from Walter Shaw scrap metal and a bolt should come to less than

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Jack..........

 

I don't know how much you saw........... but hauling it wasn't !!

 

My anchor is only 2 Kg. + about 3 K of chain. and about 50 m of warp.

 

To retrieve, I simply slip engine into dead slow ahead and pull in the slack created in the rope..... slow but easy.

 

When on top of the anchor, it comes straight up with far fewer trips of the two little cable ties I use.

 

When I move up to that elusive bigger boat, I 'll get to grips with the buoy and ring method evertyone else uses so proficiently ............. I liked the little tip from Paul D. ........about feeling the buoy reaching the chain from the vibrations in the rope.

 

Alun.

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