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Alderney ring


Newboy
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I had an alderney ring on my old boat it was round, but that went with the boat.

 

I had to order something from Crayside so I bought a set from them too ( to save on postage). However, this one come with a stopper in the shape of a triangle

 

user posted image

 

How do I connect this one up?

 

On the old one was easy, clip ring to bouy, and rope thru the ring.

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It looks as if the stopper is just to stop all your warp going through the alderney ring.

I use a small buoy attached to the end of my warp. so that if I get an emergancy I can let it all go, leave the anchor down and drift or motor away.

because the stopper catches in the ring I can come back to lift the anchor later.

 

This can be usefull if you are playing a very big fish or if someone fell overboard.

 

The alderney rings need to be attached by rope/Shackle to your lifting buoy and threaded on to the warp and chain prior to attaching the anchor.

 

I hope that helps

Charlie

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The triangle is supposedly used to stop the anchor bouy drifting back up the anchor warp and hiding under the bow.

 

You let out the anchor, warp, alderney ring and bouy as normal, and then about 2-3m before you tie off the warp you secure the triangle to the rope so that the triangle sticks above the rope like and inverted pyramid.

 

Problem is, I can't remember how you actually secure the triangle. I'll see if I can find the article in the mags that mentioned this.

 

Why bother with this triangle??? Sometimes the wind/tide will push the anchor bouy under the bow and out of sight. It's then difficult to see the bouy when you start the anchor retrieve, and can also hide the bouy from other boats and therefore they may not be aware that you have an anchor rope out.

 

Bob F.

 

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Found the article. Page 64 of June BFM.

 

You tie a small loop in the anchor warp (they recommend one and a half boat lengths away from the boat). The loop is then passed through the small hoop at the bottom of the triangle and looped back over the hoop again to secure.

 

Bob F.

 

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Found the article. Page 64 of June BFM.

 

You tie a small loop in the anchor warp (they recommend one and a half boat lengths away from the boat). The loop is then passed through the small hoop at the bottom of the triangle and looped back over the hoop again to secure.

 

Bob F.

Bob / Newboy,

 

I suspect it would be worth trying without tying a loop in the warp... just pass a loop through the small ring and back over the triangular part... I reckon it would stay put.

 

Any knots tied in the warp can be very difficult to undo after they have been under tension for a while.

 

Alan

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Hi,

 

The traingular/with small circle has in fact two important functions.

 

The one that has been mentioned i.e.:

 

It is a stopper to allow the recovery buoy to stop short of your hull so as not to bounce against it which is very annoying when sitting at anchor.

 

The other far more important function is to maintain the bouy at an important distance away from your hull (I find that around 20' is about ideal) so as when you are ready to steam past it you can clearly see the ropes trail, thus you can very easily avoid running over rope with your prop and getting it tangled. If the buoy is actually next to your hull this becomes far more difficult.

 

This by far being one of the most dangerous mishaps that can happen when using the Alderny method as there is nothing worse than an anchor rope catching around your engine leg & dragging your back end down.

 

When I am about to drop anchor I hold up the large circular ring up as high as possible using it as a guide for my chain and rope which keeps it clear of the hull. When the anchor hits bottom I then attach my buoy to the large ring by way of a large stainless snap link attached to a short rope on tied onto my buoy.

 

I then actually lift my engine clear of the water with the trim button and then let out all the slack anchor rope.

I lift the engine clear to avoid any chance of drifting my prop over the loose rope before it has chance to settle & sink.

Nobody else seems to mention doing this, but I actually find it essential as the tide can soon pull the engine over the rope.

 

When enough rope is considered out I attach the triangular stopper by pushing a loop on the rope thru' the small loop then bringing it right back over the triangle. I then let out another 20' of rope or so.

 

Using a bouy also has the added advantage of telling other boaters nearby that you are actually at anchor.

 

These are actually excellent kits from Crayside marine and well worth the expense.

I certainly have not looked back since buying one, well worth it.

Their web site actually gives out the procedure for anchor recovery using this method.

 

Another thing I tend to do slightly differently when recovering is that once I have steamed past the bouy and the anchor entually reached the surface (miles behind when anchoring at depth) is to turn my boat at right angles to the 'way off' buoy, keep the engine running so as I can maintain it at right angles to the bouy.

This I do again to absolutely minimise the risk of the rope coming aroung the stern and tangling with the engine leg. Again, its surprising how quickly this can happen in a running tide.

 

Hope this is of help.

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