Bob F Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 So, has anyone fitted their owm keel band, yet? Coddy, did you ever fit the brass keel band? What's the technique for fitted a stainless steel band? Are they easy to bend to shape? Do you need special drills and countersinks? What do you use to seal the screw holes?? cheers Bob F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted June 20, 2004 Report Share Posted June 20, 2004 Hi Bob No I was waiting to see how another chap was going to fit his own keel band to his 165. He used stainless steel strip. Said it was a bit of a b****d to bend and burnt out a few drill bits but someone suggested to try Tungstan bits which helped! Onced drilled and countersunk, he used s/s screws using stikaflex sealant and secured into the keel. It looked ok to me, been looking into the price of brass ........... hmmmm need another bank loan! However just ound out that his boat started to get hailine cracks along the hull near the strakes. Took it back to Warrior who have just declared it terminal!!!! Warrior have agreed to replace the boat FOC even though the warranty has expired. Now that's what I call customer service. Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 Blimy!! - This is Steve Marley I presume?? Didnt he have hairline cracks from the trailer somewhere on the hull also??. I too would love a S/S keelband, but after reading that I think the best option would be to go back to Warrior. Unless Shytalk can offer any advice? Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Afishionado Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 S/S band needs to be #316 grade S/S it is easy enough to drill and counter sink with sharp drills and a pillar drill. Fixing with srews and sickoflex would be the way to go BUT the pilot holes and screws MUST be of the matching size to avoid pressure stress on the GRP caused by small pilot holes and too biger screws. The S/S is easy to pre-bend ofer a rough former prior to fitting. There is a company on one of the Verwood trading estates called Ferraris (they are in the book) who sell all sorts of non-ferrous metals and are not expensive. For short lengths of keel or bilge strips one can also buy galvanised 'Water Bar' from a builders merchant. This stuff is about 3/16th thick and heavily galvanised. Mad Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malroy Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 I made and fitted my own to my Warrior 150. We are fortunate enough to have three laser cutting machines at work. They were made from 3mm thick 316 stainless steel, cut from a 2500mm X 1250mm sheet. Bending to shape is no problem as you go along with this thickness. The keel was measured at 200mm intervals along its length as it has a taper from back to front. The programmer followed my sketch and the dimensions & hole positions worked out fine. One hole every 200mm or so. I was fortunate in that all the holes were laser cut to size so I just had to countersink to suit the screws. Use quality countersunk head st/st screws no more than 19mm long (got the max screw length for Warrior) To have one commercially made as a "1off" by laser cutting would be very expensive because of the set up cost, you really need a batch quantity to make viable. You will need a high quality high speed steel countersinking bit, or a tungsten carbide if available to you. Had to make mine in two pieces because the maximum we can cut at work is 2500mm long. I would not recommend trying to make one by hand because of the taper. I used a high quality combined marine adhesive and sealant (in a blue & white tube which I can't remember the name of), covering both the strip & filling the screw holes & scre threads. Forget silicon sealants, they won'y do the job. Yes I think it was silkoflex as per prev post Good size pilot holes are required else you will snap the stainless screws. If I had not the laser cutting facility at work I would have gone to Warrior. Malc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 In case you are wondering ................... Warrior price for 150 or 165 s/s keel band Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shytalk Posted June 21, 2004 Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 s/s strip and preferably bolts or screws and plenty of sikaflex drilling is simple if you use the right method give us a shout and il give you the sp adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob F Posted June 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2004 Cheers guys. Good tips and advice. Coddy, I use one of those large, plastic, flexible, yellow, builders baskets for my anchor warp. Adam will know what they are called. Works pretty well. Can be quashed into a tight corner. Bob F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malroy Posted June 22, 2004 Report Share Posted June 22, 2004 Anchor Bin. I use one of the plastic circular tote type bins similar to what they sell at B&Q + hardware stores for around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob F Posted June 22, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2004 ...bin within a bin. Hmm, might try that. Nice one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 Gorilla Tubs. - The big flexible yellow ones. I do have an anchor locker on BW, but when using the alderney ring, the warp and kit doesnt go back in while at sea, so I need to store mine. I have one of the big black bins with 2 rope handles, and one of the 'Faulks Gorila Tubs'. These are basically made for plastering etc. They are soft and flexible and never break. The first time I used the black bin as an anchor store the anchor split the sides as they are quite brittle. These gorilla tubs are the nuts. Mine is big enough to hold 300mtrs of rope, anchor and chain and my alderney ring and bouy - just. But I only have the medium one. Coddy - if you want one, give me your rough location and Ill tell you where our nearest branch is. - They only cost about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malroy Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 Fitting Keel band while on trailer isn't too difficult. I used a trolley jack with long strong timbers to support, as not much lift is needed. However you will need to move the boat backwards & forwards along the trailer so you can get at screw holes to drill and assemble. Make double sure strap is left secured to stop the boat slipping off the back & also support the back to stop over balance (tipping). KEEL ROLLERS When I fitted my stainless band it very quickly started to knock hell out of the rubber keel rollers so I replaced them with nylon which I find excellent. Far easier launch & winch back on (one handed), but more security at the front of the trailer is required in the way of additional straps or securing links to prevent the hull slipping backwards. Malc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 I like the idea of nylon rollers, but am concerned about the lack of 'cushion' the boat will get from the harder nylon. I have heard of stress cracks appearing along the hull from trailering??>.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malroy Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 Heard the same myself prior to fitting the nylon rollers so was a little worried. A guy when I was in Indespension, explained to me the following: The keel of the boat is by far the most resiliant & supportive section of the boat. As most boats tend to be around 700kgs or more (in particular Warriors) and supported by their keels on rubber rollers most of the rubber in fact compresses anyway. In particular on worn or older rollers the keel is almost locked solid to the rollers centre steel spindle with little give or cushoin between the two anyway. There is still some give in the nylon, with still some cushioning which will end up practically the same anyway. By far the most important is to ensure that the rubber side supporting rollers are correctly set up to support in relation to the keel rollers so they don't end up with too excessive a stress load in weaker areas of the hull, or that the hull does not bounce about too much from side to side. Malc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 Hi That is interesting about the keel rollers as not all of my keel ones touch the keel when on the trailer for transportation, however, when winching the boat onto the trailer the keel rollers that don't normally touch come into play and assist in getting the boat to sit square and on the outer rollers correctly. This sounds more complicated that it is I used nylon rollers previously on a Seahog and you do have to make sure it is strapped down well and when launching a good fixing for a rope to hold it from just sliding off the trailer. I would keep one rubber roller on the bow area of the keel so any vibration is asorbed. I have found you have to go into the water more with the Warrior than the Seahog so plenty of waterproof grease around the rollers and piviot points to keep everything smooth. Adam, ref Gorilla tubs, I live near Bedford but travel all over the UK. Regards Coddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted June 23, 2004 Report Share Posted June 23, 2004 Coddy, Yep, I understand what you mean...my trailer is the same. the 2nd keel roller acts to keep it all straight when recovering the boat. At present I have no gripes with my rubber rollers so will keep them. Also I though Id struggle without a keel band, but so far it has been OK, so if it aint broke, why fix it??? Coddy, If you want a tub, PM me your address and Ill post one to you. Cheers Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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