Adam F Posted March 13, 2005 Report Share Posted March 13, 2005 Having spent the last 5 months attempting to strip the anti foul of BW - I have managed to clean all of the topsides (the bits you can see on the water) and have almost finished the bow section - the extreme underneath can wait until next winter. Using a combination of chemicals, machines, wet and dry and just bloody hard elbow grease I have got this far! (I wouldnt recommend this task to my worst enemy! and wish I had paid to have it stripped and polished proffesionally!) Now - I have got back to clean gell, but is is rather 'matt' from the wet and dry - I want it shiney again, so what is the best way? I have been using a sheeps wool mop on an orbital sander with 1200 wey dry and t cut, and have got it shiney, but a 1m2 takes about 1/2 hours - is there a quicker and easier way? Am I using the right method and polishing compound? Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newboy Posted March 13, 2005 Report Share Posted March 13, 2005 If you want new gel coat you will have to paint that on and cover it up as gelcoat won't dry with air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted March 13, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2005 No - I dont need to use new gel, I just need to polish it up thats all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Posted March 13, 2005 Report Share Posted March 13, 2005 Hi Adam There are several polishing compounds that will help get the finish back We use Faracle at work, it comes in a variety of compounds so you can start with a course one and work down. to get the final polish we use Autogleam a car polish that has a slight cutting agent or some of the Members prefer to use MER which is much easier to polish. [ Less elbow grease required] Have fun Charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted March 13, 2005 Report Share Posted March 13, 2005 Adam Dean and I went completely round the above water line part of the hull today. First we used a compound called G3 which is slightly more abrasive than T cut. Use a wet mop head on your drill/polisher. Do not use one of those cheap orbital polishers as it will take forever. The reason for using a wet mophead is it stops the compound drying out and clogging your mop and it makes the cleaner go further. I use a drill and sanding attachment with the mop tied on. Then as Charlie says use Mer or any good quality car polish. Maverick is sparkling now. We have just got the cuddy and like you the underwater line section to do. Not looking forward to going under the boat Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newboy Posted March 13, 2005 Report Share Posted March 13, 2005 Adam this post might be of interest to you. http://www.ybw.com/forums/showflat.php/Cat.../gonew/1#UNREAD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duncan Posted March 14, 2005 Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 at the risk of being at odds with comments to date most of the boat forums and mag tests put Mer at the bottom of the pile polish wise - and this from the guy who has a 5ltr pot of the stuff! Usual commnets are that it gives a good initial shine but doesn't last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted March 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 Thanks Guys - v. helpful. I have been using a turtle wax T-Cut until now, but it takes a while, okay for the final coat, but I need something a bit grittier first - may try G3. Re. power tools...what is best? I have been using a Dewalt Round, Orbital Sander with a sheeps wool mop (dry) and it has been OK, but I was thinking maybe somehting run on a compressor would give a greater RPM and therefore make it easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted March 14, 2005 Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 Adam The best tools are polishers that look like an angle grinder (basically are) with a mop on it. I use an ordinary drill with a sanding attachment that you can fix polishing heads/mops to. The only problem with using ordinary drills is that they don't last to long, they can burn out with prolonged hard work, uumm sounds a bit like me Much better and quicker than those orbital jobbies even than the posh one you have Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted March 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 So can I get an attachment for my 4" angle grinder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shytalk Posted March 14, 2005 Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 autosol works for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted March 14, 2005 Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 Adam Not sure about 4" grinders but definately on 9" you would however need to take the guard off Why not see your freindly Wolseley Hire centre manager as you work for them couldnt you get a loan m/c for a week end or at least buy the attachments at a highly discounted price. Failing that go to Machine Mart Bournemouth Road Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted March 14, 2005 Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 Angle grinders run at to higher RPM. You'll be in danger read probably will, of burning the compound into the gel coat. Theres a fair bit of heat generated by the compound at those sorts of speeds. For a not too expensive semi prof polisher look at silverline tools. I bought one of their polishers from my local stockist for less than 40 quid. You can buy online if you want. A good robust tool not too heavy and a lot better than the rubbish sold in halfords and B&Q. I'm surprised no ones mentioned Dilunette gel for removing the old AF. Nitromors do a stipper designed for GRP. It'll take off the paint but leave the gel intacted. Dilunette is the stuff to use tho. Brilliant stuff. I used it on a whole boat and stipped off 4 layers of paint in one go. Applied it left it overnight and scraped/washed it off in the morning. I've also used a power washer with a sand blasting attatchment with good results. You need to be careful not to go over areas wher the AF has been removed tho. Made that mistake once, won't do it again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted March 14, 2005 Report Share Posted March 14, 2005 Used Dilunet on my boat with ok results but not as good as it says on the tin. To be fair though the boat has 5 years worth of antifoul on it which equates to 10 layers of paint. I am still trying to remove the stuff albeit on a peacemeal basis (fed up) Agree you have to be carefull when using drills etc but with plenty of water damping things down, it worked for me Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted March 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2005 Yep - I was planning to hire something from Hire Center, just wanted to check out what I needed first. Dillunette is what I also used - not bad for the top 6 layers, but it wont shift the stubborn base layer - have resorterd to abrasives. AF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted March 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2005 Got myself a free hire on a Makita Polsiher for a few weeks from work. It has a compound head to apply the polish and a mop to remove / buff it. I have ordered some G3 to remove the P1200 marks and already have some Autoglym to finish off with. Like Martin - now I just have to get underneath and remove the rest of the subborn antifoul! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinbad Posted March 15, 2005 Report Share Posted March 15, 2005 Hi Adam All that hard elbow grease has inspired me to remove some A/F as well - and to use machines to polish my topsides, as it really takes too long by hand. My galvanised keelband is looking pretty horrible as well, but thats pointing to Australia and not easily accessible. I can get my hands on a friend's angle polisher, but what and where is G3 ?? Regards Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted March 15, 2005 Report Share Posted March 15, 2005 G3 is a polishing compound made by Fareclea. Its fairly course and good for taking out blemishes. After using that I'd finish of with some G10 which is a finishing compound. It really puts the shine on the finish. After that I'd apply a good teflon wax for a lasting protection......christ I sound like an advert on a cable shopping channel! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul J Posted March 15, 2005 Report Share Posted March 15, 2005 Can't wait to get to that stage, Im still patching and sanding, hopefully we'll get the bottom coat on at the weekend Paul J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted March 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2005 Where can I get some G3 and G10 locally? It will take 7-10 days if I order online, so Id like to just pick some up - the polisher is coming this weekend. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Martin Posted March 16, 2005 Report Share Posted March 16, 2005 Brown Borthers Sharp Road of off Alder hills or SMC motorparts Ashley Road Poole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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