Bob F Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 A guy from another forum sent me these tips on customizing his Warrior. Thought it would be useful for you Warrior owners. An interesting insight into some problems he has seen. Done a few things, might be worthwhile. Rod racks is the first, though Warrior now offer them as well. There's two vertical strengtheners up the hull on each side that'll take a self-tapping screw. I've put simple rod racks onto these, made up from a central length of 2"x 4" with shaped MDF sides screwed to it. Keeps the excess rods/boat-hook out of the way and if you carefully shape the holders they'll hold rods in under way without resorting to bungee cords. As well as screwing the racks down, bed them on a layer of Sikaflex. That stuff is brilliant, never lets go! There's a drain plug to the underfloor space. If it fills up regularly with water, the most likely entry is the access hatch in the anchor well. Perennial problem with some boats. That hatch isn't needed, thoroughly seal it off with Sikaflex and pray your keel isn't rotting :-( Warrior very kindly put the grab rail at face height on the cuddy edge. Tape heavy rubber hose round it. Doesn't stop you being able to grab it but does save your teeth if you hit something or back off unexpectedly. If the grabrail is up there, then the sloping edge of the cuddy is free ( unless they've got a canopy fitted). Ideal place to bolt a length of drain pipe. Then you can park the landing nets up out of the way but ready to grab. Not a good plan to travel with them there though, they'll rip the pipe off eventually. A jubilee clip around the upper end stops it cracking in use. Luggage: always ends up heading for the stern. Starboard side is easy, bolt eyed hooks to the front bulkhead and the console and run a pair of bungee ropes between them. Stops all the stuff from bouncing off the seat onto the floor, works a treat. I can send digital pics if this isn't clear. Port side is harder as there's nothing to attach the bungees to at the rear. I'm just in the process of designing up a stainless hoop to do that. Isn't easy as the securing brackets will have to be screwed/rivetted and that's not very strong. Plus I don't want to compromise the passenger legroom (or break anyone's shin). Should be done by about April. Rod protection. Domestic pipe insulation (15mm) is dirt cheap. Tape it over the handrails and it protects rods and rod-rings. With 3 aboard and a pack of hounds coming through, all hell breaks loose and the spare rods can get well and truly battered. Anchor: if your guys haul from the deck area then they'll be getting some damage to the rubbing strip and the rail and bodywork just above it from the chain. Or anyway, I do because I run a 7.5kg Bruce plus plenty of chain and it's too much for the average crewman to hold clear of the paintwork. The rail is easy to protect. I split some narrow drain pipe lengthways, prised it over the 'anchor-hauling' section of rail and taped down the edges to stop it acting as a roller (that'd play hell with the rail finish in the long-term). The bodywork and rubbing strip are trickier. I've sourced some 0.75mm stainless sheet. That's just thin enough to bend around the rubber strip and bodywork and when it gets scratched to hell and gone, I'll just replace it. There's an issue with presenting 0.75mm metal edges where fingers can find them so I'll be bolting a 20mmx3mm strip over each edge to protect the pinkies. Keelbands: ridiculously expensive. Local steel merchant just sold me 4m of 50mm and 4m of 20mm marine grade (316) 3mm stainless strip for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shytalk Posted February 14, 2004 Report Share Posted February 14, 2004 some sensible ideas but dont use mdf for rod racks it absorbs water like a sponge and swells up quite substantialy!!!!! use wbp plywood or if you are loaded then hardwood or marine ply Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam F Posted February 14, 2004 Report Share Posted February 14, 2004 Good tips bob!...nice to hear how people get around the problems that the manufacturers leave out. Whom is this guy?...wouldnt mind speaking to him about a few things!...ie how he fitted the keel band? Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob F Posted February 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2004 Adam, I've sent you an email. Bob F. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coddy Posted February 20, 2004 Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 Hi All I too am thinking of adding a keel band but looking to use brass half round strip as it is easier to bend, drill and replace if needed. It also acts as a bit of a buffer if you hit anything! Like the rest of the tips, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob F Posted February 20, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2004 Interesting idea. How does brass compare cost wise to stainless steel? I guess it is softer than SS, so it wears a bit quicker and will be susceptable to a few knicks and burrs. But of course brass is used to the marine environment, so it will not corrode. Interesting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.