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i drove down thursday to try and fix what i though was a problem with my gps/fishfinder power connector, but it seems i have a bigger problem.

 

My garmin is wired in to the loom (from the factory) and has 12.6v at the power connector, but i cant get it to power up. 

 

if i take the garmin and hotwire it straight to the battery, it works, so it is not a problem with the head unit.

 

i am stumped. 

 

anyone seen anything like this before?

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Although you have 12.6 volt at connector without load , it could drop out once unit is connected.

Worth checking / replacing fuse in fusebox for corrosion

as this could cause problem

you describe.

Good luck!!

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12 minutes ago, sparky said:

Although you have 12.6 volt at connector without load , it could drop out once unit is connected.

Worth checking / replacing fuse in fusebox for corrosion

as this could cause problem

you describe.

Good luck!!

thanks Sparky. will give it a try. 

 

hopefully your name is more than just a coincidence!

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Had the same on Small Fry when I bought her (Warrior 165)

Had a bank of switches. The one for the GPS had 12 volts in the circuit but GPS wouldn't work.

Same reason as Mick described.

Got a great discount (Thanks to my Brother) (The gobby one of the family) 😃

Replaced one little switch and it worked.  👍

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thanks also Tiddler.

 

I have called in the engineer as i dont have time to diagnose where the fault is. 

 

If it was an old crappy boat with a bodged wiring loom, i am sure i woudl be able to find it. But i dont know how to deal with these boats that have been wired up properly! I dont have the experience to deal with that.

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My opinions are dangerous but my old garmin 178c was doing the same and i found the positive terminal pin and sleeve in the rear plug was black and corroded. I got busy with the soldering iron and swapped it for a clean unused pin.

The wiring schedules are online.

sometimes it works now.

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18 hours ago, Gummage said:

My opinions are dangerous but my old garmin 178c was doing the same and i found the positive terminal pin and sleeve in the rear plug was black and corroded. I got busy with the soldering iron and swapped it for a clean unused pin.

The wiring schedules are online.

sometimes it works now.

thanks Gummage. At first i thought that was the problem, as it would play up, but if you fiddled with the power plug, it would resolve the problem. 

 

So i went and bought a new power cable. Tested it at home on a car battery, all worked, so i thought i had found the problem. Seems it was a waste of money as as soon as i wired it in to the loom, it didnt work.

 

i have an engineer going tomorrow to trace the fault. 

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A tip, when testing the voltage load up the circuit while doing so. I use an 18w bulb with some wires attached. You don't even need a volt meter just touch the wires from the bulb across the circuit, if it doesn't light up brightly you have problem with the circuit somewhere. If you feel you need to know the voltage only do so with the bulb attached.

Next after checking for obvious possible corrosion points is to go back along connection points to breakdown which part of the wiring has the problem.

The problem with using a voltmeter is they require such low current to operate (very high impedance) even if the wiring is only connected by totally corroded through copper the full battery voltage will still be shown! only a completely open circuit will indicate 0 volts. This results in much wasted time as you think the problem lies elsewhere.




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i dont know yet. the engineer let me down, but promised me he would be coming this week.

I just havent had time to come down. I do cricket coaching, and that takes up my early summer weekends, so I have only had one of the jubilee bank holidays to look a it.

 

But i have been doing my research on how to diagnose, and i am taking an old bilge pump with me to load the circuit, as in @Steve S suggested above. 

 

but i am hoping it is fixed, as we are coming down camping with the family for the weekend to get out!

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