Jump to content

A new project named Blah ( could get messy)


Hooky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Can you not get your hands on this engine if a runner?

 

I have a spark jump tester if it runs at all - you can open the gap to see if the spark will jump across when running - a healthy spark should clear 10mm - you can then check they are are the same. Borrow if you wish and i can find it (sure i will be able).

 

My Yam has a wax stat choke \ prime start - on carbs 1 and 3 - (4 it total) - but lasts for longer that 20 seconds - more like a few minutes.

 

R

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Rob said:

Can you not get your hands on this engine if a runner?

 

I have a spark jump tester if it runs at all - you can open the gap to see if the spark will jump across when running - a healthy spark should clear 10mm - you can then check they are are the same. Borrow if you wish and i can find it (sure i will be able).

 

My Yam has a wax stat choke \ prime start - on carbs 1 and 3 - (4 it total) - but lasts for longer that 20 seconds - more like a few minutes.

 

R

Yes please Rob : engine in Devon, seized due to putting too much oil in tank so non runner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Hooky said:

Whats the engine on yours ? little bit of info like the 2 min thing very much neede 

 

1 minute ago, Hooky said:

Yes please Rob : engine in Devon, seized due to putting too much oil in tank so non runner.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Rob :

Only three options  left , one of them could see me looking very stupid .

 

Clue ! what is the difference between 2 stroke oil & 4 stroke oil ????   yet another little job to sort .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

try this.......

 

Comparing regular lubricating oil with two-stroke oil, the relevant difference is that two-stroke oil must have a much lower ash content. This is required to minimize deposits that tend to form if ash is present in the oil which is burned in the engine's combustion chamber. Additionally a non-2T-specific oil can turn to gum in a matter of days if mixed with gasoline and not immediately consumed. Another important factor is that 4-stroke engines have a different requirement for 'stickiness' than 2-strokes do. Since the 1980s different types of two-stroke oil have been developed for specialized uses such as outboard motor two-strokes, premix two-stroke oil, as well as the more standard auto lube (motorcycle) two-stroke oil. As a rule of thumb, most containers of oil commercially offered will have somewhere on the label printed that it is compatible with 'Autolube' or injector pumps. Those bottles tend to have the consistency of liquid dish soap if shaken. A more viscous oil cannot reliably be passed through an injection system, although a premix machine can be run on either type.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, alun j. said:

try this.......

 

Comparing regular lubricating oil with two-stroke oil, the relevant difference is that two-stroke oil must have a much lower ash content. This is required to minimize deposits that tend to form if ash is present in the oil which is burned in the engine's combustion chamber. Additionally a non-2T-specific oil can turn to gum in a matter of days if mixed with gasoline and not immediately consumed. Another important factor is that 4-stroke engines have a different requirement for 'stickiness' than 2-strokes do. Since the 1980s different types of two-stroke oil have been developed for specialized uses such as outboard motor two-strokes, premix two-stroke oil, as well as the more standard auto lube (motorcycle) two-stroke oil. As a rule of thumb, most containers of oil commercially offered will have somewhere on the label printed that it is compatible with 'Autolube' or injector pumps. Those bottles tend to have the consistency of liquid dish soap if shaken. A more viscous oil cannot reliably be passed through an injection system, although a premix machine can be run on either type.

 

And this what i was looking at : it cant be this , have I been a total pillock ? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So once again it was a late night at Hooky mansions , lets start again, lets start at the the very beginning , its a very good place to errr , etc etc.

 

Carbs are here, new ones are auto choke not prime start , im also going to delete the autolube > oil tank  and loads of wires and pipes.

 

This conversion is my only option, it has been impossible to find a decent , un molested prime start set, every set i found has had exactly the same issue., 

 

It will be best to put up pictures due to the amount of other owners  with corroded carbs that cant  afford tobuy then new at £217 each plus VaT  !!!!! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So top picture, left hand side , look good don't they ? Until you take them apart, corrosion has wrecked one, you can't get the jets out ( yes it is possible but !)

Prime start, it's all a updated choke, I don't like it, it's the ones with a little red lever.

I think it would be fine BUT with the amount of corrosion in that carb its scrap.

 

To the right we have a set from a 'fully ' working engine they have a normal choke hence the extra butterfly's 

 

The inlets are different , the crap set has o rings inserted into the faces, the new set does not , swap them over and hold in place with a tiny amount of gasket sealer..

 

New fuel pump fitted , three tubes, two bolts , just as well as mine had the pin hole in the diaphragm, it would not have helped.

 

Sizes of jets between the two sets exactly the same, all three carbs must have the rubber blank over each minor jet , never use anything else but the correct blank , these jets share a air emulation hole , it's so tiny I can't even see it !,

 

 

its it's taking far longer than it should, a straight swap would have been a hour.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Hooky,

 

Brass will expand quickly with heat.

Aluminium will expand more & quicker.

In my old motorbike days . . . . Chucking stuff in the oven ( when wifey's not looking ) can loosen things quite well.

You need big thick welders gloves.

The gloves are thick . . . . not the welder Rob ! :smileys-fish-530232:

Always worth a go.

Jim

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes Jimbo, it may be possible to get the jet out but read on !

 

Tonight has found a major thought, why was only one carb very corroded and not the other two ..........?.q?...

 

The answer got found a few minutes ago , I drained the two stroke tank down ready for removal , a conservative estimate would be 100mm of pure water , and we are all aware of how it separates in a tank , especially if a total ass ( not me )  uses a mineral based oil .

 

So had did that happen ??? It's called a split in the rubber / plug / cap thingy , it actually looks like a cup .

 

Where did the water go ???? Straight into the auto lube pump , that then ends up injected into the tube just before the reeds .

 

It answered the problem of why it would tick over by die on a whiff of throttle.

 

It also explain why cylinder two had a wet plug ! 

 

The biggest elephant in the room? A hole between the crankcase ? It's fine doing a compression test for most of the time , a full pressure test ( leak down)  would be a huge step too far , I have never heard of this engine ( ( Dangar marine in Austrailia )  that has had this issue , if this was the case it would have just overheated and gone bang .

 

Unfortunately this will of course mean  that water may have also gone into the bearings etc, if that's the case it's all over , I was aware that this engine came with this boat as a non runner , possibly spares only ,.

 

Im not going to give up just yet , im a very stubborn man .

 

Looking on a positive side I'm learning about engines , strange thing is I'm far happier doing this than watching the telly , the fishing can wait for another few months :bawling:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

The ups and downs of life (sigh) looked like this boat would have to be sold , endless hours wasted, it has been a bad year:frown:

I had lost it , fishing was of little meaning or interest , despite loads of support from my friends ( you know who you are chaps )  .

 

The weather has been brilliant these last weeks, one thing that kept me (slightly ) sane was sitting down by baiter park and watching others having  fun.

 

At last I could book a few days off work , just maybe one last go to see if I could get the carburettors on, get the battery charged and then if it didn't work at least I tried my best.

 

New oil in tank , fresh fuel and she started first time , didn't know wether to :smiley: or :weary:..

 

After making the huge decision to also fit new bearings to the trailer, sorting out all those loads of little jobs that needed doing she's sat ready to go for a maiden launch in the next few days.

 

I had to let my Christchurch mooring go , so once again a huge thanks to Darvester as he is not using his for the rest of the season, if all goes well on her first run out she will now have a temporary home .

 

Even  if I get a run up the river ( yes the auxiliary runs ok) IT will be a positive outcome.

 

COme on weather. , let the winds drop , who knows I might even get out to catch my first fish of the season !!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


×
×
  • Create New...