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Joint Venture Re-Build thread


Adam F
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The plan is to use JV as she is for a few months and get to know the boat before a major re-fit over the winter. The boat and engine are sound but the build is very 'garden shed' so a full internal re-fit from scratch, and a full re-wire, complete new electronics system and pretty much a whole new stainless package - so not far off a full build.

 

My plan is to use this thread to track progress for anyone who is interested!

 

 

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First job is a dive platform. JV has very high gunnels so for boarding and alighting from a tender this will be a big help, plus getting onboard from the water.

 

I'm planning a small one with a ladder that will support it too.

 

Pic below shows the basic template that will be used to build a mould from.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Adam consider extending the bathing platform to finish at the end of the outdrive.  This would imo make it a very useful addition that does not get in the way of fishing and doesn't cost any more in the marina as your already paying for the outdrive in your overall marina berthing cost

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I'll cover off as much as I can rob, but no problem in showing the mould build, prep and glasing  I'm no expert but I'm getting better!

 

Martin - I did the one on JV like that but Ive so much space on the new boat all I really need is a small plinth - plus Ive seen one of Breaksea's boats with this small one that looks ace.

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Picked up all the fibreglass kit yesterday from a mate who works for a company who build Super Yacht tenders... All a bit posh for a fishing boat!

 

Will have the mould finished this weekend. Once I had got the template perfect, next job was to create the sides. I'm using MDF for this one, not the best material but it's cheap and easy and this is a one use only mould. It has a reasonable finish but will need a bit of polishing when it comes out to get it perfect.

 

Base is made from 18mm to give rigidity, the sides have a curved form and have been made from 6mm, and I steamed the corners to get the curve. Always need to bear in mind that when making a mould you are working up side down, back to front, so measure twice cut once is the rule to avoid mistakes.

 

Once the mould is done, the corners need to be filleted to give a smooth curve. I've used flexible filler for this applied with a gun and then use a 1/4 filleting tool (ball on a stick) to give a regular finish.

 

 

 

 

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Hi mate

I radiused the corners of the mould using easy sand body filler, you can get tools with various size round ends to shape the radius, but I used the end of a pallet knife.

 

I am sure you have looked at this but try the mould in place on the boat with the leg fully up (they do go up further than you think)

 

Have fun

Charlie

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Ok, for those of you who wanted to see how to laminate fibreglass:

 

You've seen the mould and the details around that so here's the next few steps. This next pic shows the fillets in place all around and the next step which is starting to wax the mould. The wax is basically a contaminative layer between the MDF and the gel coat. Without it the lay up wouldn't release from the mould. I went for 5 coats of wax, polished up once dry to give a nice sheen and a good protective layer.

 

 

 

 

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Next its time to start laying up the mould. The first two coats are gel coat catalysed at 2% by volume. It's key not to mix up too much especially in warm temperatures as the mix will 'kick' faster. I've been doing a pint at a time, with 8ml of catalyst and that's been giving around 10-15 mins work time. Once the resin or gel starts to kick its useless and you need to clean down and mix another batch.

 

Anyway, so mix the gel, get this first two layers on with a brush, this gives a nice thick coat. Take care to get it on evenly and not to be light anywhere. Remember this is the final finish that you're applying and will determine the finish of the mould.

 

 

 

 

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Once the gel is on you can start to apply the fibreglass and resin. At this stage it's worth pointing out that getting organised beforehand saves a huge amount of hassle once you start this job! Trying to cut glass and pick things up once you have gloves covered in resin isn't the best idea!

 

A tip I picked up from Pete is to mount the roll of glass on a pole it makes it easier to dispense the roll and manage cutting. So you want to cut all the pieces you need before you start. I try not to make them too big so they are manageable. The basic tools and process here is as follows.

 

Fluffy mini roller, cheap 2" brush, disposable tub, sheet of MDF / ply for wetting out the mat. Polyester resin and 300gm chopped strand mat (CSM)

 

So mix up the resin. Decent coat into the mould to act as a 'glue' for the sheet of glass. Pop your glass on the wetting table and give it a decent coat of resin. Pop it into the mould, roller it flat, saturate with resin and consolidate. That's the short version. In practise for anyone wanting to try this, it's easier to be shown / talked through. Once the resin has saturated the mat the emulsion holding the fibres together release and the whole lot becomes 3 dimensional... It's fantastic stuff! The aim is to get a smooth finish without any air bubbles.

 

The final pic shows the first layer in place, and I'm done for tonight! I'll get another layer on tomorrow and then the foam core to add strength.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Great Adam

Looks like a good start to the improvements

 

I like to build up a good few layers of wetted GRP, Then roll it with a hard and ridged roller to get all of the air out, before it starts to set

To see that there are no air pockets, it is easier if you do not add any pigment to the resin.

 

I know that you are aware Adam, but others may not be.

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A bit more progress today.

 

Total lay up will be 3 layers of mat, followed by the foam core, and then 7 layers on top of that.

 

After starting the first layers in the week I had to wait for new rollers to arrive as I'd run out. Today I have managed to put on 4 layers inc the core. So a few more layers on Sun and then the lay up will be complete.

 

I'd forgotten how labour intensive this is, making the mould to completing the lay up! Still it's the only way to get a quality finish.

 

I'll then leave it a few days to really cure well, before attempting to pop it from the mould later in the week.

 

 

 

 

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