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Smart Tabs


Rob
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When I bought JoJo she had a set of DoleFins attached to the cavitation plate. I had found that with wrong trim setting it can make the whole going fast experience very twitchy and high speed turns it could dig in and almost tip over! Not fun to find out at 30knots!

 

I did remove the DoleFins and the stability had returned but I could no longer get on the plane @ 10 knots, which is useful for Poole Harbour.

 

Therefore I thought I would investigate getting some SmartTabs as a cheap solution and ditch the fin. Well they arrived Saturday all the way from the good ole USofA. And knowing I was going out on Sunday I found a spare 45 mins to fit them Sat night in the dark.

 

Well initial testing was very positive - I think I need to play with the adjustment as the bow was a little flat\low at speed but overall I was pleased. They are the new plastic\composite version called the SX range and were

Edited by rob francis
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Small Fry is a Warrior 165 with a 75 HP E Tec

As Rob says, It would be nice to get up on the plane in Poole Harbour within the speed limit.

Does anyone have views on which would be best, Fins or Trim tabs ?

 

 

Jim

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Trim tabs also stops corkscrewing when travelling at speed through other boats wake sick.gif

 

not to sure on the fins though unsure.gif

 

which is very handy when travelling by poole training bank on a sunny sunday

 

afternoon about 5.00PM mad.gif (big boats and looney`s spring to mind)

 

Mine seem to work fine at 10mph.....(Warrior 165)

Mind you if you saw my brother`s lunch box you can see why i can 'plane' when not actually moving ph34r.gifrolleyes.gifbiggrin.gifohmy.gif

 

Gary

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Jim

 

If you search forum you'll find my previous post where I had a Bennet trim tab ripped off the hull when hitting a wave rather awkwardly.

 

Reason for failure was that anodes on tabs had corroded to a point where they weren't doing their job and Galvanic corrosion was eating the stainless steel screw heads that held the tabs to the hull.

 

The probem was resolved by

1.Replacing stainless steel screws

2.Replacing existing anodes with new Plus fitting an additional extra large anode to each tab

3, Using a metal antifoul rather than one for grp hulls on the stainless steel tabs This was more effective preventing weed growth hence the anode condition could be easily monitored over the whole season.

 

If you trail your warrior you shouldn't have the same problem.

My boat is berthed all year at Cobbs Quay where the brackish water and electrical currents have a field day dissolving anodes

 

Peteg

 

 

 

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Just looked back at Rob Francis's post. He has bought plastic \ composite tabs.

I assume this will stop the corrosion of screws as well.

 

When I set my tilt & trim to mid position and the sea is flat, If I open Small Fry Up she will do 32 mph acording to my GPS.

The problem is that it keeps ( porpoising ) ( I think that's the right term ).

The bow climbs and falling, giving an unstable ride.

If I adjust with tilt & trim, It stops the porpoising but the steering gets heavy as F.

That sounds like I need trim tabs I think

 

 

 

Thanks again,

 

Jim

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Has anyone had problems with Trim Tabs?

eg. Having to drill more holes or screws pulling out or _ or _ or _ or ?

 

 

Jim

Hi Jim,

SeaMouse is a 165 with Smarttabs. They make a big difference, she planes earlier, is less sensitive to lateral shifts in load underway and porpoising is eliminated. They do, however, occasionally get in the way of lines running under the stern and they are right where you don't want them on a shallow launch. For a drying mooring, beach launched, or one that regularly gets tipped out shallow enough to touch the stern down, I'd avoid them.

The thrust rating is important. My Pro Angler had 80lb tabs on it and it was plain evil in a stern sea. I think 60lb is the usual issue, but I've put 40lb ones on and they work great. On midway thrust and lift settings I get the bow nicely down with the engine dead level, but on a following sea I can get the bows well up.

 

Steve

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Jim,

The fitting of plastic tabs won't help your screws in fact probably quite the opposite as you need to fit sacrificial anodes to something.

 

I am told that the Volvo QL style tabs are very effective although they cause a lot of drag and hence increased fuel consumption.

 

One of my Pontoon Neighbours swears by them but he also moors at the pontoon with additional anodes dropped into the water and wire connected to the boat metalwork at various locations

 

The vertically operating tabs still have to be fixed to the hull with screws.

 

They wont get in the way of your fishing like the smart tabs.

 

I dont have the problem with tabs getting in the way of fishing on my boat as I fish from the open Bow cockpit.

 

Peteg

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Of course, for Jim's 165, if it's not on a mooring, it doesn't need anodes. I just wash down after every launch and my Smart Tabs have been on my 165 for 2 years with no probs. 40lb thrust models.

 

Terry.

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Quite Right Terry

 

 

Sometimes I wonder whether its not better to trail,

 

Go where you Like rolleyes.gif

 

No antifoul rolleyes.gif

 

Can work on boat out of water and basically when you like rolleyes.gif

 

no anodes rolleyes.gif

 

no mooring/berthing fees biggrin.gif

 

 

and then there's the one overiding factor as to why I berth

 

 

 

Your not keeping that ****** in front of my house!! sad.gifsad.gif

 

Fear unsure.gifunsure.gif

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